Babylonstoren has arguably become one of the most well-known and well-loved South African wine farm experiences. It boasts the full package: a winery, two restaurants, a bakery, a hotel, a host of cottages, a spa, and an impressive expanse of gardens which one can peacefully meander around. Moreover, Babylonstoren has cultivated a household brand that is known for its beautiful products and aesthetic packaging. But a tin of rooibos tea, containing just 35 teabags, goes for a whopping R115. Nevertheless, it is beloved by Capetonians as a birthday or Christmas gift, demonstrating the incredible social capital that Babylonstoren has cultivated.
I took a visit to their farm this past weekend to partake in this quintessentially Cape experience that is so raved about by the middle-class. We spent the afternoon exploring the farm and indulging in the various offerings, including a walk around the scented room, story of wine museum and gardens. We consumed many glasses of wine and finished it all off with lunch at the Greenhouse. I wish that I could say everything lived up to the talk, but unfortunately Babylonstoren, in particular their wine offerings, simply did not walk the walk.
They seem to have made some questionable decisions regarding winemaking practices. Take for instance the Nebukadnesar, a Bordeaux style blend that is made up of 49% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 13,5% petit verdot, 12% cabernet franc and 0,5% malbec. This wine has untapped potential but has instead been nuked by aging the varietals separately in new French oak barrels for 23 months. The varietals are then blended and aged for another month, also in new French oak barrels. Admittedly this creates a wine that is smooth and well-rounded with a good tannin structure and excellent mouthfeel, but tastes and smells like oak, oak, and more oak. The Nebukadnesar has been erased of all character and emerges sadly wanting among the other offerings of SA wine also priced around R695 a bottle.
Continuing in this vein, the vast majority of their wines are overpriced and suspiciously flat, containing one dominant and overriding note. For the Babel blend 2021, it was fanta grape. The Chardonnay tasted only of white peach and the Viognier, even worse, of fake peach flavouring, reminiscent of childhood candy.
Don’t be too alarmed though, it is not all bad news. Their wine club membership is surprisingly good value for money and if a few of their wines aren’t your fave, you can always palm them off onto your friends at a braai. The Sprankel is superb with delicious freshness and minerality (although the R710 a bottle I should hope that it is bloody exceptional). The Mourvèdre Rosé is their best seller for a reason – light, dry and perfect for summer. Last but not least the Grenache Noir is refined and refreshing – quite possibly one of my favourites from their range. Easy drinking and reminiscent of a pinot noir, you will be sad to see the end of the bottle.
Speaking of the end of the bottle, I would recommend giving the Babylonstoren experience a bash, but don’t get your hopes up. A lot of it is bang average with a few shining lights of brilliance thrown in to increase the average.
Babylonstoren wines can be purchased via their website. Not for sale to persons under the age of 18. Enjoy responsibly.